Wednesday, February 27, 2013

"Strength in Unity"

Not exactly sure who this guy is.

His mates say his name is Jimmy. But there seemed to be someuncertainty.

They reckon he is about 20. Again, not sure.

They say he remembers to bring his guitar to the crag but forgets his harness and shoes. It all sounds pretty vague.

Style:Jimmyscreams socialistchic and solidarity inlast seasons "Enterprise Bargain Agreement" T-Shirt in black with yellow ".Your Pay - Your Call" print by the always hip Aussie label, Australian Workers Union.

Did you get a good look at me Jimmy? Spooky huh?



The movethat started it all.Nine routes fan out from thisbeginning.



Jimmy put down the guitar long enough to switch on and send Spoonman.



Then back to guitar for songs of workers struggles and sendage celebrations.





It never hurts to have a stab at something hard at the end of the day.











Tuesday, February 26, 2013

I/O Merino and jjobrienclimbing&style






Climbers, you know I love wool. So I felt an instant affiliation when I got the chance to shoot some promos for South Aussie company I/O Merino.

This is the first of several posts we'll be doing for io. It's good looking gear, and the Principal Style Editors at jjobrienclimbing&style are psyched to be involved.




Look out for the mens collection too.











Remember my Strictly No Synthetics tour of Tibet and Everest base?

Silk, Cashmere and Merino. Love the stuff.








The promotional photographic team at jjobrienclimbing&style, after some deliberation, decided the best approach for this job was to put one of theses merino tops on an awesome climber, get her on a classic steep route, put her through her paces, and take a sheepload of photos. And they did.













Issy cranking hard on a hot 35 degree October day. Climber and top still working at peak performance.











Issy twists and stretches, like only she can, but that merino keeps up with every move.

Neither climbing nor style was ever in danger of compromise.









"The I/O Sport Crop Top is a snug sports bra that wil feel luxurious against your skin whilst keeping your chest warm. It is designed with flat seams and no scratch tags so that it will hug your body and feel fantastic all day". $39.95





Stop press: Justfor being loyal and stylishfollowers of jjobrienclimbing, you can use the discount code iom30 and get 30% off when shopping online. Click the icon to go to the store.










Turns out wool is good for climbing. Who knew?










Look out for the logo. jjobrienclimbing endorses it. You should too.






& jjobrienclimbing










Thursday, February 21, 2013

Wordless Wednesday :: Receding Tide

Near Pensacola, Florida. March 1974.
Copyright © 1974/.. by Rebeckah R. Wiseman

Old school technology on modern ice?

There is a lot to recommend the really light weight boots with super soft ankles like the La Sportiva Batura and Trango Extremes on steep technical ice but comfort and calf support aren't two that come to mind.









One way I have found to help that style of boot on endurance ice is use some old technology that a few back country skiers are now remembering as well.









Long Thongs and Alberg straps in the past were used to help stiffen the ankle on ski boots, long before I started skiing. A extra wrap or two around the ankle, then snugged up tight, is just what I need for long, full days on continuous ice. Might not be enough for Alaska but should get you up things like Polar Circus, Slipstream or the N. Face of Athabasca with a bit more comfort in those soft ankled, stiff soled, light weight boots we all love. Not required for the typical ice cragging day though. Nice because with the option of stiffening the ankle the biggest advantage to me of these boots is how easily they walk with those same, soft ankles. Hard climbs with long approaches (or long climbs with only a moderate amount of hard climbing) is where i think these boots excel.









Black Diamonds heel levers and their safety straps ($30 a pair for the entire kit straight from BD catalog sales) offer the perfect option and length of strap on my size 12 boots and skinny ankles. You can use BD and Grivel levers on Petzl if you like. Cut the wire straps off the front bail and the Grivel/BD straps will work in a similar manner with at least one full wrap around the ankle for additional support. Heel levers are easy to switch off and on. Another advantage is you are less likely to ever loose a 'pon if the 'pon clips ever pop off your boot. Something else I really appreciate is you can then cut those damn toe retainer pieces off the front bail and forget about them!

Monday, February 18, 2013

Huntington Beach State Park


Across the street from Brookgreen Gardens is the Huntington Beach State Park. We had visited one state park this week so I didn't expect this to be much different. As soon as we walked out on the beach area though, I saw it was very different.







I said, ahhhhh....this is more like it.







Notice the lack of tall commercial buildings here? It makes all the difference in the world to me. Here I can simply focus on nature. I can focus on the huge fluffy clouds that so nicely offset the ocean below.







We walked and walked here, snapping pictures along the way.



If we make it back to Myrtle Beach, this is where we want to stay! They have a full service campground that was quite nice. They have a store and they offer wi-fi. That and the beach is all we need!



Living the life in NC!










Sunday, February 17, 2013

Pop-Up Tour de France! A Book About a Race That Put a Smile on My Face

Pop-Up Tour de FranceWhen Paintbox Press asked me to review Pop-Up Tour de France: the World's Greatest Bike Race by Pamela Pease, I agreed out of sheer curiosity - expecting a children's picture-book. Having now read it cover-to-cover, I must say that this is the most comprehensive and captivating explanation of the race I have come across, as a novice follower of the sport. Oh yes, and the pop-up illustrations are adorable!



Pop-Up Tour de FranceWritten in a way that can be read by adults and precocious children alike, Pop-Up Tour de France begins with the history of racing and of the Tour itself, before plunging into a step-by-step explanation of how the race is organised and held today.



Pop-Up Tour de FranceEverything one might care to know - descriptions of the stages, explanations about how teams work together, race tactics, etc. - is spelled out in language that is interesting and understandable to a layperson, without being condescending or simplistic. Illustrations are done in what looks like pencil and gouache, occasionally combined with photos and logos collage-style. The pictures have a whimsical, half-finished quality to them that addstextural interest anda sense of spontaneity: Pencil marks are visible and the density of brush strokes is uneven. While parts of the same image might be rendered in great detail, other parts look almost like abstract colour blocks. Combined with the pop-up features, it all comes together well to attract the viewer's eye to even the most minute details of the illustrations. The book is exciting and succeeds in portraying the Tour de France as a very real and very appealing event.



Pop-Up Tour de FranceThen of course there is the cute factor. There are tiny cut-outs of jerseys for the various race stages.



Pop-Up Tour de FranceAnd things like this, where you get to see who's inside the team car by pulling on the tab, or who rides in the caravan by rotating a spinning wheel.Overall, the book comes across as well researched, though I am sure Tour aficionados would find plenty of slip-ups. The only thing I found off was a reference to a "back derailleur".



Pop-Up Tour de FranceHeld since 1903, theTour de France is the most famous bicycle race in the world and takes place every year in July - In fact it is happening right now, and today is Stage 16. This year is the first time I've felt inclined to follow the Tour and I am not ashamed to admit that this wonderful pop-up book has contributed to my enjoyment and understanding of the coverage. Whether a novice or a seasoned follower, a child or an adult, the Pop-Up Tour de France is certain put a smile on your face and rev up your enthusiasm for cycling - be it on a racing bike across France or on a 3-speed around the block. I am delighted that a book like this exists about a sport that does not receive as much publicity as its fans would like. Thank you, Paintbox Press, for the opportunity to review it.

Saturday, February 16, 2013

Mexican Train with Bob and Vicki

We are leaving tomorrow, and we've hardly seen Bob and Vicki since we got here, so we are thrilled that we made plans to play Mexican Train with them tonight. Before I get into the evening, I have to talk a bit about Bob and Vicki.

We all adore Bob and Vicki. You know how there are certain people that just find a way deep into your heart? They are those people for us. Vicki was the first person to tell us about Mexican Train. She was the first to teach Austin and I pickleball after Barb sucked us into the game. Vicki spent hours and I mean HOURS that first day with us. That's just how she is though...so patient and kind. Bob always has a twinkle in his eye and has a wicked pickleball serve and game. They are tons of fun to spend time with. Beyond that they are just what Austin always calls "good people". We find ourselves breathing easier when we are around people like them.

Don't let that fool you though, because they will still play to beat the pants off of you when playing Mexican Train! We started out with Aric in the lead and Nathan with the Good Sport ribbon. Every time I see a picture of Aric, I am glad he shaved all of his hair off so you can see his handsome face now. That and I got tired of people thinking he was homeless. Bad enough we live in a RV, we don't need people thinking we have no home at all thanks to him! Just kidding, Aric. You look mah-velous now though.

At some point, Bob pulled into the lead. I think Vicki's bathroom trips where she could see all what we all had on our trays had something to do with this...but I can't quite figure out how...so I'm not tossing out any accusations just yet. Austin decides that Bob is winning, so they are now "homies". Or maybe they are homies because the two of them combined talk almost as much trash as Dean does by himself. Either way, I think he thought that meant he got to wear the ribbon too. (Note the long sleeved shirt that Austin wore so he could stick dominoes up his sleeves. I'm on to him too!)

Bob said once he got the ribbon, he never gave it up. So I think Austin needs another game plan if he wants to wear the ribbon. Then again, Austin does have youth on his side....

Sadly, Bob's prediction was right. He did keep that ribbon for the rest of the night after he took first place. Nathan was even stingier though. He wore his ribbon the whole night and never once shared it with anyone.

We had a great night with them. Can't wait to see them and everyone else again in Florida!



Living the life with laughter in Michigan!

Friday, February 15, 2013

Traveling by Bike

Bike Travel!As you may have noticed, we are staying on the coast for a little while - our annual working vacation. This is something we've been doing at the end of every summer for the past six years. When we lived further North, we used to go to a place in Maine, and after moving to Boston we began staying on Cape Cod. I've been writing about that for the past two summers, and it's funny how over time our trips became increasingly bicycle-oriented. Two years agowe went by car as usual, but for the first time took bikes and cycled around a bit during our stay. Last summer we arrived by car again, but got around entirely by bicycle once there and attempted some high mileage day-trips. This summer we no longer have a car and really did not want to rent one just for the trip. So after discovering that Cape Ann was accessible by commuter rail, we decided to come here instead and do the whole trip on bikes. Another reason for choosing Cape Ann, is that it is a popular starting point for long rides up the coast of Northern New England. There are no decent routes north directly out of Boston, and what cyclists often do is take the commuter rail up here before proceeding north. So that was the plan: To arrive on our bicycles, to get around by bike, and to cycle up the coast as far and as often as possible in the course of our stay.



Rivendell and Surly Go TravelingOur main challenge was figuring out how to transport our belongings. This is not a bicycle-specific trip, so we needed more than a change of cycling clothing and rain gear. We are living here for two weeks and doing all the same things we do at home - including work-related stuff. We needed our regular clothing and footwear, personal hygiene products, bedding, towels, laptops, a variety of electronic devises, some necessary books and documents, and our camera equipment - in addition to the cycling clothing, tool kits and raingear. And all of that we fit into the luggage you see here.



Rivendell with Handlebar Bag, Saddlebag and PanniersFor a number of logistical reasons, we decided the most practical course of action would be to turn one person into the pack mule - and since I already had a front rack and a large handlebar bag on my bike, it made sense that this would be me. I had planned to eventually get a touring-specific rear rack for my Rivendell anyway, and so that is what I did. Between the two of us, we packed a total of five bags for the trip - four on my bike and one on the Co-Habitant's.



Rivendell with Handlebar Bag, Saddlebag and PanniersThe rear rack on my bike is a Nitto Campee with removable lowrider panels, to which we attached a set of Carradice panniers, while using the rack's platform to support a Sackville SaddleSack. These bags plus the Carradicesaddlebag on the Co-Habitant's Surly contained our clothing, bedding and laptops. My Ostrich handlebar bag contained camera equipment, electronics and various other miscellaneous items. Everything was packed very tightly, and I estimate that my bicycle weighed around 100 lb when all was said and done.



Rivendell with Handlebar Bag, Saddlebag and PanniersThe ride to the train station from our house is 4 miles through some of the busiest parts of the city. I have never ridden with my bike loaded up like this before, and the prospect of trying it for the first time in Boston traffic was nerve-wrecking. Overall, the bicycle handled fine. Once it got going, I could not feel the weight at all, and the heavy handlebar bag did not affect steering. But at very slow speeds - especially when starting and stopping - there was a fishtailing effect in the rear that took some getting used to. Also, with so much weight on the bike, the brakes were less effective than usual, which I had to keep in mind when stopping on a downhill. The frame itself had an interesting feel to it - as if it was "yielding" to the weight (mildly flexing?). The resulting ride quality was in some ways nicer than with the bicycle unloaded. Having survived this ride in traffic, loaded touring on the open road does not seem in the least daunting. Going slower than usual is, of course, a given - but the reduction in speed was not as drastic as I thought it might be. Even cycling uphill (which I got to experience once we arrived to Cape Ann and rode from the train station to the place we are staying!) was not as difficult as I expected. Thanks to a helpful reader after my description of our previous commuter rail experience, we were able to board the elusive bike train, which made the trip more pleasant still.

Carradice PannierOnce we arrived and settled in, we removed the lowrider panels from the rear rack, transforming my bike from a full-on pack-mule into a lighter ridethat could still carry food and equipment when necessary. I will write more about this particular rear rack in a separate post; it is pretty neat and versatile.



DryingThe place where we are staying is somewhere between a cabin and a shack on the architectural spectrum and is the size of a small garage. It is situated on a rocky cliff overlooking the ocean, and there is a beach down the road. Despite the stormy weather, we love being here - just the two of us and our bikes. Yesterday the sun finally came out and we did a 50 mile "warm-up" ride, hoping for more soon. And it feels great that we were able to drag all of our stuff up here without needing a car. It was important to us that this did not feel like a compromise compared to the previous times we've gone away, and it most definitely does not. We were able to fit everything we need into our bicycle bags, and not having to deal with a car here feels extremely relaxing. I highly recommend giving traveling by bicycle a try!

Thursday, February 14, 2013

Tire Chains - Remember this winter!

The regulations at the park have changed over this last summer to be consistent with WA State mountain pass chain requirements.Here's the deal simply stated: You need to have chains in your car when you come into the park - even if you don't use them and the posted restriction is "snow tires advised".The reason for this is that the road conditions rapidly change during a snow event. So even if you drove to Paradise in the sunshine, when you leave there may be 6 inches of snow on the road.And if you have a 4x4, remember that actual tire restriction is "Tire Chains Required - 4 Wheel Drive with approved traction tires OK - 4 Wheel drives must carry chains".This carry chain requirement for 4 wheel drive vehicles is likely to be enforced at chain-up stations.Here's the tire restriction FAQ off the NPS.GOV website.
Tire Chain Requirement - Frequently Asked Questions




Mount Rainier National Park Tire Chain Requirement:
All vehicles are required to carry tire chains when traceling in the park during the winter season (November 1 - May 1). This requirement applies to all vehicles (including four-wheel-drive), regardless of tire type or weather conditions.Tire Chain Requirement Frequently Asked Questions
Where and when do I need to carry tire chains? Between November 1 and May 1, all vehicles in Mount Rainier National Park are requuired to carry tire chains. This requirement applies to all vehicle types in all weather and road conditions.
What about sunny days? The chain requirement applies to all vehicles and all days between November 1 and May 1, regardless of weather and road conditions. Weather in the park is notoriously quick to change, and sudden storms can appear with little or no warnng.
Why do I need to carry tire chains? A set of chains in every vehicle means that every vehicle is prepared and equipped for changing winter weather conditions. Drifting snow and whiteout conditions can occur at any time. Having chains available in the event of a storm will give each driver an extra margin of safety, allowing the road to remain open longer even when conditions are changing.
What if my owner's manual tells me not to install tire chains? The requirement to carry tire chains applies to all vehicles, regardless of make or model. Vehicle manufacturers that caution against traditional metal tire chains (e.g. Subaru) do market cable chains that are specifically made for their vehicles. Cable chains can be a good option for vehicles with limited tire clearance.
What if I have a rental car? Tire chains are required on all vehicles taveling in the park, including rental cars. However, some stores may accept returns of unused chains.
I have a 4-wheel or all-drive car- do I still need to have chains? Yes. Four-wheel drive and all-wheel drive vehicles must carry chains. While vehicles with all-wheel-drive capability and approved traction tires do have enhanced traction, during the most extreme conditions this not sufficient for safe vehicle operation. Chains provide optimal traction in the most challenging road conditions.
Mount Rainier National Park requirements are similar to Washington Administrative Code (WAC) 204-24-050, which states that, for vehicles under 10,000 gross vehicle weight:
"When "chains required" signs are posted, all wheel drive vehicles shall be exempt from the chain requirement when all wheels are in gear and are equipped with approved traction devices as specified in WAC 204-24-020 provided that tire chains for at least one set of drive tires are carried in the vehicle."
Washington State Law does not require motorists to carry tire chains over the major mountain passes- why is it different here? During extreme weather conditions, Washington state does require chains, even on all-wheel and four-wheel drive vehicles, as noted above. In addition, Mount Rainier's roads are unlike most of Washington's in a variety of ways. At 5,400 feet above sea level Paradise is significantly higher in elevation than most of Washington's highway passes and roads. Furthermore, Mount Rainier's roads are scenic park access roads and are not intended to be as wide or have as many safety pullouts as a state highway.
Is there anything I can use instead of chains? Cable chains are typically thinner and lighter than traditional tire chains and may be more easily installed. We recommend checking with your local mechanic or tire store.
Is there anywhere I can rent/buy chains? Tire and auto parts stores normally carry tire chains. Purchase chains from a business in your local community and practice installing them before you come to the park.
Tire chains are available for rent at:Whittaker Mountaineering
30027 State Route 706 E
Ashford, WA 98304
(360) 569-2142

whittakermountaineering.com
Several Ashford stores carry chains in limited sizes:


Ashford Valley Grocery
29716 State Route 706 E
Ashford, WA 98304
(360) 569-2560



Suver's General Store
(SUV and Truck sizes)
30402 State Route 706 E
Ashford, WA 98304
(360) 569-2377



Chains are also available in Eatonville and Morton:


Eatonville Auto Parts- Napa
105 Center Street East
Eatonville, WA 98328
(360) 832-6272



Ed's Mortan Auto Parts- Napa
184 W Main Street
Morton, WA 98356
(360) 496-5141


Practice & Safety Suggestions Before coming to the park try out the chains on your vehicle to ensure they fit.
Practice chaining up at home, were it's dry, which will save time in cold and wet conditions.
Ensure your vehicle is in park and the parking brake is set before working around the wheels.

Sunday, February 10, 2013

This one's for footnoteMaven...

The footnoteMaven has posted a very special edition of Friday From the Collectors. If you read closely, a heretofore well guarded secret is revealed. . .

In honor of her post I did a quick look through my scanned photos and found these "candid" pictures of several women in my family who wear glasses and who had their picture taken with them on.


My great-grandmother, Susie Yarian Phend, holding two of her grandchildren, Phyllis Phend and Josephine Phend (they are first cousins).


My grandfather (Rolland Victor Phend), his grandmother (Lovina Berlin Yarian) holding his daughter (Phyllis), and his mother (Susie Lula Yarian Phend). About 1923. Grandpa had glasses too but they were not always worn by him, as evidenced in the picture below.


Phyllis Phend, about 1924. Handwritten below the picture was "Dady's Specks"