Onsight!

Simon Carter has been responsible for so many of us taking up the life of climbing.

Climbers, you remember the first time you saw a Simon Carter photo. We all had the same experience. The urgent, desperate need to buy some gear and get out there. It was a glimpse of what was possible.



So when he put on a show in Brisbane in July everyone and their belayerturned up. I think the opportunity to get closer to the source of our inspiration was irresistible.







That, and Monique Forestier, who is currently smashing every hard route in this corner of the State.






Monique supported the team on the night with a beautifulRed Phoenix Emporium bespoke necklacefeaturing Tibetan turquoise.






Over 150 people were entranced by the best climbing shots from around the world.






In the collageyou'll see Andrew Lightfoot, Rob Saunders, Duncan Steel, Brad Babel, Simon Carter, Bochere Rand, Tracey, Henk, Sam and Lee Cujes, Suzy G, and more




































But it's not all about the climbing. We blew the morning off fooling around at the beach with Cocoin the glorious winter sun.I lacked the basic timing skills to keep dry while getting water in the bucket.

I love the newBronsonpant. ThanksPrana and Expedition Equipment. If I had one tiny criticism it would be that the cuffs get a little heavy when they are full of sand and sea water. Not usually an issue at the crag.


















Photo sequence: Simon Carter


Monique sent the always awesome Lee Cujes route, Gasoline Rainbow 28, without too much mucking around. I didn't have the chops for it this time. That route is way too much fun. So many funky moves.







Photo: Phil Box
Sterling Rope climber Monique Forestier gets some Velocity 9.8 between her teeth.











Photo: Phil Box









photo: Phil Box




A quick celebration back at the belay.



Photo: Selfie



And there goes the Coolum Classic, Screaming Insanity.






Thanks Simon and Monique for bringing so much fun and talent to the local crags.




P.S. Monique, moments ago, (10/8/) sent Whistling Kite 32 at Frog Buttress, making the first female ascent.

Ancient Giants

Northern California is home to one of the most amazing natural sights that I have ever seen: the Redwood Forest. It is truly awe-inspiring to stand in the shadows of these gigantic trees. This photo was made in Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park just outside of Crescent City, California.

The Tree of Swirl

The Tree of Swirl, originally uploaded by ParsecTraveller.

Whoa! This picture must have been Photoshopped, right?! Wrong - it's all done in camera.

This photo actually shows a tree in my backyard. I got it by zooming in while simultaneous spinning the camera. Pretty cool, huh?

Desert Christmas

Macro Cacti, originally uploaded by ParsecTraveller.

Before today, I had never gone hiking in the desert during a rainstorm.

Well, I guess there's a first time for everything.

I saw these cacti growing high on Sunrise Peak near Scottsdale, Arizona. A rainstorm had just blown through, and the setting sun was creating golden light everywhere. Directly behind me was a 180° rainbow, and considering its desert location, it was pretty spectacular.

Talk about a great Christmas.

Forbidden East West Traverse ..

EPIC!
Part I
"The Summit"

The original plan was to climb Forbidden Peak as an east to west traverse so that we could climb the west ridge and avoid the late season difficulties associated with it. We got a late start in Washington Pass and packed up slowly and did some sight seeing. We ate lunch in Marblemount and finally got under way. As soon as we were hiking the Boston Basin bushwhack, I mean trail, we knew what we were getting into. It turns out we were both fairly tired from climbing South Early Winter Spire the day before and we were feeling it.

Sorting gear for Forbidden (photo by Steve Machuga)
On the way in we passed Josh and Matt who were coming down from a climb of the Direct East Ridge. We chatted a bit and got beta for the descent of the East Ledges. It was probably there that I made the decision in my head that we would probably only do the east ridge and then descend the ledges although I may not have expressed it to Steve at that time. After chatting a bit we continued on and discussed the option of descending the ledges. After some difficult water crossings in the basin, we were finally in the upper basin and setting up camp three hours after we left the car.

We pumped some water from a nice stream, and made dinner. We prepped for the next day and decided on a wake up time of 5:30am. (Josh and Matt had told us they left camp at 5:30.) We had a bit of difficulty getting to sleep because we kept thinking we were hearing female voices. This may have been true as another tent was there in the morning (About 100m downhill from our location) that wasn't there when we went to bed.

Just before the alarm went off there was some rock/ice fall on the mountain. I jumped up to make sure we were not in danger. My commotion woke Steve up and he promptly went back to sleep. I hadn't been sleeping well and mulled about in my sleeping bag for the next 15 minutes until the alarm went off. Once the alarms went off, Steve and I decided to rest in another 15 minutes or so before actually getting out of the tent. [Can you already count the many signs of an epic?] We ate breakfast, used the toilet and left camp at 6:30am.

We had good information from Josh and Matt about the problem they had on the approach and made quick time up the slabs to the snow and eventually the gully. We arrived at the notch at the base of the route around 8:30 or so. In keeping with the epic theme, we dawdled at the base for some time (including Steve needing another "bathroom break" before starting the route.) During our delay we made the decision not to down climb the west ridge. We knew we were both tired and we weren't moving that fast coming up from camp.

We eventually started climbing at 10am and I took the first lead. The first bits were 3rd class and then it got somewhat harder where I had to negotiate a few small gendarmes. Since good protection was scarce, I looked for a viable anchor location after I had about half the rope out. I wound up slightly off the crest of the ridge on the south side and was probably slightly off route. Steve made his way over to me and then slowly made about leading the next pitch.

Steve had to regain the ridge crest first and then make his way up the first significant gendarme on the ridge. This section is listed at 5.7 in the guides and that would probably be correct. It was slow going as route finding was not obvious, but more so because protection was difficult. Once finding an suitable anchor location, Steve brought me up. Two hours had passed since we started climbing and I knew that we were in for a long day. Being the optimist, I thought our speed would improve now that we got a feel for the climbing and we were back on route. So we continued on.

Following the second pitch (photo by Steve Machuga)

I led a short exposed pitch along the ridge crest with easy climbing before I got to and area that looked like it may be difficult to find an anchor in. So I went with the option I had present. (Which still felt pretty desperate to me.) I brought Steve over and we discussed the next pitch. We were a short distance from the next major gendarme which can be bypassed on the north side of the ridge. Steve led off around some minor obstacles before taking a path of least resistance on the north side of the ridge. After using up all the rope, I began to simul climb behind him as we both wound up north of the ridge proper. We continued to climb on the north side for some distance on loose dirty ledges until Steve hit a spot where he could build a reliable belay. He then belayed me to his location.

I started out on the second leg of this traverse over a rib and onto more slab like terrain heading for the notch between the last two gendarmes. It seemed we were a bit low and as I headed back up, the terrain was better for climbing and protecting. I could see I wouldn't make it to the notch in one rope, so when Steve told me I had used half the rope, I built a suitable anchor. He then led off to the notch on a full rope length and brought me up. Having looked at the rap on top of the last gendarme, I can say I am glad we decided to bypass it. (Scary overhanging rappel off a rock horn.)

Climbing up to the notch (photo by Steve Machuga)

Anchor options weren't great at the notch, and it took Steve a long while to build an anchor using a few pieces and a few natural options. This was the crux overhanging 5.8 step. I had already told him he was leading it, so we switched positions and he headed out. The step looked scary and Steve had a hard time believing it went the way it did. He tried to scope out other alternatives to it, but then faced the fact that it did go up that steeply. Steve confidently led up the steep face and began to look for a suitable belay anchor. (I told him it better be solid before starting the pitch.) He went a bit further before he built an anchor. I climbed the steep section which was pretty wild, but easier than it looked. Although it had a very funky move where you had to stand on a wobbly block in order to make a move. After reaching the belay, I was off again.

Topping out on the 5.8 (photo by Steve Machuga)
I led out a bit on what is supposed to be 5.2 terrain to the summit. It was mostly on the crest and upon approaching a minor step, with a sling on top, I set up a belay. (I mistook that to be the summit, but was unsure.) I brought Steve up to my location and he led out for the summit.

My last lead up the East Ridge (photo by Steve Machuga)
He reached the summit and set up and anchor to belay me up. I joined him at the summit around 7pm. Clouds were blowing up out of Boston Basin and blowing down the north side of the mountain. There was the smell of smoke. (We presumed the clouds were related to forest fires.) The wind was cold and we snapped a few pics before rapidly going about the rappels...

Summit shot (photo by Steve Machuga)
My photos are here.

Immediate Bike Immersion

For the first time since I've been staying in Vienna, there was a bicycle all my own waiting for me when I arrived. Here is Jacqueline again, courtesy of my friend Wolfgang - famous here not only for his fantastic vintage collection, but also for his bicycle touring and bicycle moving endeavors.

Since our last time together, Jacqueline has been given a leather saddle and is now more beautiful and comfortable than ever. The saddle is a sprung Brooks that appears to be a vintage version of the B66 (the model number is faded and I cannot tell exactly).

It felt so, so wonderful to be greeted by Jackie's "familiar face" and to cycle around the city on my very first day back instead of using public transport and moping. With the memory of my own bikes back home still fresh, I can say this Steyr Waffenrad is a distinctly different ride from my vintage Raleigh Tourist. Riding the Austrian bike feels as if I am sailing on a ship. Not quite sure what this means exactly, but that is what the sensation makes me think of. It is not better or worse than my bicycle at home, just different. Amazing that even among similar bikes, there are such differences in ride quality.

Still trying to adjust to the transition from Bostonian to Viennese cycling, I nearly missed this girl in front of me with a spectacular crocheted dressguard on her bike.

Here is the best close-up I could get. I love these vintage crocheted dressguards, and in Vienna you can actually see them occasionally "in the wild".

Wolfgang also has some nice ones on one of his collector bikes, but that bicycle is too old and valuable to cycle round the city. Crocheted dressguards are a passion that I try to suppress due to how difficult to find they are, but I am always looking. The only place I know of where you can get new ones nowadays is Simeli in the Netherlands, and I hope to review one of those soon. A couple of people have also emailed me about some handmade projects, but I have not had any follow-ups (let me know if you've seen or heard anything on that front).

Being in Vienna again, I have weeks of stressful workdays ahead of me - but having Jacqueline by my side will be a great help. I will see my friend Anna from Cycling is Good for You soon with her gorgeous Retrovelo Paula. And I may try to ride a vintage Austrian track bike, though I am still unsure whether I am brave enough to attempt it! Stay tuned.

Ladies Leading Double Lives: Sport vs Transport

Just as I have been experimenting with road cycling in parallel to using my bicycle for transportation, so have several other ladies with prominent bicycle blogs.



[image via Simply Bike]

S. from Simply Bike normally looks like this when she cycles. But above she is pictures riding across Iowa while taking part in RAGBRAI. This was her first time on a roadbike!

[image via Adrienne Johnson]

Adrienne Johnson of Velo Voguedons bike shorts and a (surprisingly attractive) jersey as she cycles in the Marin Century.



[image via Meligrosa]

And here is Meligrosa, of Change Your Life Ride a Bike, whodoes not allow a mere 100 miles get between her and her Style (yes, with a capital S!).

[image via Suburban Bike Mama]

One of my favourite sporty cycling pictures is this one of Vee from Suburban Bike Mama, who normally rides a cargo trike, completing a triathlon last summer.

[image via Chic Cyclist]

Of course the queen of the velo double life is Charlotte,of Chic Cyclists - who is as comfortable cycling to work on her upright city bicycle, as she is touring around France on her roadbike.Sigrid of My Hyggeligsimilarly alternates between her Pashley Princess and her Trek roadbike. And Justine, of Midlife Cycling, cruises around New York City on her mixte and takes regular roadtrips to neighboring states.

Over the past year I have noticed an increasing number of women who, after growing comfortable riding an upright bicycle for transportation, have begun to venture into sportier cycling, including club rides and touring. Being in this category myself, I have wondered whether this is a natural progression that will "stick," or whether it's the novelty of the bicycle that compels us to seek out different ways of using it in our lives. And if the latter, will we tire of it once the novelty wears off? I also find it ironic that, after having cited "seeing roadies wearing special clothing" as a major reason why we were turned off from cycling in our pre-bike days, many of us are now inching into that category ourselves. Not ironic as in "bad" or that I am critical of it, but ironic as in "something to think about".

I am still not sure what I think about it myself. I have been spending a lot of time on my roadbikes (yes, plural now!) this summer, but I am conflicted in my attitude about this type of cycling. Since the start of summer, I have been flirting with the idea of joining some women's training rides that are offered to the public by a local cycling team. Given their criteria for minimum speed and skill level, I qualify. I have thought about it countless time, but have not joined - and the summer is nearly over. Maybe it's my general dislike of teams, authority, and group activities, or maybe I just don't want to admit that I am now that kind of cyclist. But am I? Maybe I should give it some time and see if it "sticks".

The Estate of Jacob Switzer :: Sale Bill

There were three men (actually four, another has been found) with the name of Jacob Switzer who resided in Columbiana County, Ohio during the 1805-1860 time period. This estate file is for the Jacob Switzer who is my 4th great-grandfather and who married first Catherine Brinker (in 1811, the mother of his children) and second Leathy Bricker (in 1853). Jacob died on November 2, 1859.



The Sale Bill was filed December 10th 1859. Estate of Jacob Switzer. Probate Packet 4962. Columbiana County, Ohio



Text within square brackets [ ] has been added to indicate words that were difficult to read. I did not add up the dollar values that I transcribed to determine if they added up to the total amount of the sale!



=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=

A bill of the property sold by Daniel Deemer administrator of the estate of Jacob Switzer, deceased as per [illegible word] vendue Nov 29 1859.

Names of articles 11 one horse wagon 1 Two year old Heiffer 1 Red Cow 1 Red Cow Whiteface 1 Spotted Cow 1 Black faced Cow 1 Red Yearling Heiffer 1 Horse (Fore) Lot Medicine [?] & Pottery Gun Powder horn & Pouch 1 Sleigh 1 Sled 3 Cow Chain 2 Cow Chain 1 Set Buggy Harness 1 Halter Saddle & Bridle 1 Wheel barrow 1 Plough 1 Shovel [illegible word] [???] w two Chain [???] 1 Saythe 3 Forks 1 Grain Shovel 1 Hog 1 Hog (Sow) 2 Small Pigs 1 & 2 [?] choice 1 Small Pig 3 choice 1 Small Pig 4 choice 5 Ton Hay 2 Ton Hay	Names of Purchaser Taken by widow at appraisement Taken by widow at appraisement John Mitchell David Bricker Mathias Fisher Soloman H. Sitler Taken by widow at appraisement Taken by widow at appraisement A B Arter John Deemer Adam Simon [?] Taken by widow at appraisement J J Brinker Taken by widow at appraisement Taken by widow at appraisement [???] Axel Phillip Simon Taken by widow at appraisement Levi Hanna Jacob Keck Levi Hanna Levi Hanna Taken by widow at appraisement A B Arter John Deemer Phillip Bricker Taken by widow at appraisement John Harter John Harter Taken by widow at appraisement Taken by widow at appraisement	$ cts13.0011.0018.0014.2511.0014.378.0065.001.801.005.62.901.30.503.00.504.87.501.00.50.08.28.50.8010.8011.454.003.253.4030.0012.00

First Page of Sale Bill filed December 10th 1859.Estate of Jacob Switzer. Probate Packet 4962Columbiana County, Ohio

Names of articles 1 Ton Hay 1 Ton Hay 1 Ton Hay 1 [???] Buggy 1 Wind Mill Lot old Oat Lot Oats in Straw 30 Bushels Corn 38 Bushels Corn 4 Cider Barrels 1 Log chain 1 clock 1 Bureau 1 Buffalo Robe 1 [have no clue] Lot Corn Fodder 2/57 acres wheat in ground 1 - 2 Inch auger 1 - 1 ½ Inch auger 1 – 1 Inch auger 1 - ¾ & ½ Inch auger 2 Chisels 1 Draw Knife Hammer [???????] 1 Strip Sleigh Bells 1 Horse Fly Net 1 Set old Harness 1 Par Driving lines 1 Axe 2 Bags -	Names of Purchaser Simon Miller Levi Hanna J. B. Everton [?] Taken by Widow at appraisement Levi Hanna Taken by Widow at appraisement Taken by Widow at appraisement Taken by Widow at appraisement David Bricker Simon Arter Andrew Bricker Henry Aldridge Leathy Switzer P. Buhecker W. E. McLaughlin Taken by Widow at appraisement Taken by Widow at appraisement Jona Worman Simon Miller Simon Miller John Walker P. Buhecker A. R. Kelly P. Buhecker Levi Hanna Levi Hanna Levi Hanna Levi Hanna Taken by Widow at appraisement Taken by Widow at appraisement [Total amount of Sale]	$ cts8.508.508.50210.003.005.00212.005.005.32.90.621.253.2153.2153.705.00215.00.40.46.20.34.50.40.801.5537 ½21.215.431.60.30$390.30 ½

The above Sale Bill is correct.

W. E. McLaughlin Clerk of Sale.





Second Page of Sale Bill filed December 10th 1859.Estate of Jacob Switzer. Probate Packet 4962Columbiana County, Ohio

A meeting at the Belgian Beer Museum in Brussels

Last month I was in Brussels for work and we had a meeting at the first floor of the Belgian Beer Museum (no. 10—the ‘den Gulden Boom’ building) on the Grote Markt (Grand Place). It’s a gorgeous building, it’s façade adorned with gilded elaborate designs.

I’ve been to Brussels many times and I’ve seen Brussels at its loveliest. January wasn’t the best month though as I was met with rain and overcast.

After the business meeting, we had a short beer history lesson in the basement of the building. Like many beer museum visits, I was really expecting a beer tasting session afterwards but unfortunately that did not happen, well, not at least right away. In fact I was quite confused on what's next on the agenda and I accidentally followed the women who were going to the chocolate making session held a few blocks away. I did not know that the beer tasting session is at the same building but at the first floor where we earlier had the business meeting. Oh well.
If I was to turn back the clock, I would have stayed for some beer. Anywho, I was able to taste a locally brewed trappist beer during lunch though.

And to be honest, I don’t think I will recommend quickly a visit to this Beer Museum. There are so many notable beer breweries and outstanding abbeys where a grand beer tour and tasting, are in my opinion, better experienced.

Here are a few pictures of the Grote Markt (Grand Place) on a gloomy January day.

View to the Grote Markt / Grand Place from the Belgian Beer Museum building

Belgian beer history lesson

More buildings on Grote Markt / Grand Place.

The Belgian Parliament.

One thing I would like to add... traffic in and around Brussels is HORRIBLE. The only advantage in going by car to Brussels is parking. A whole day parking costs only 14,50 EUR. For this amount you pay under 3 hours parking in Amsterdam and Utrecht.

Amabilis Mountain ..

Ken had organized a mellow outing up Amabilis so that people could either ski or snowshoe. The road up or in has not been groomed yet, so I made the decision to bring fat skis. There were six of us on the trip and it was split with two people snowshoeing and the rest skiing. We had a casual start, and didn't leave Seattle until 8am. With a few stops on the way, we were finally on snow around 10am and headed up the road.

The road conditions down low

Despite the recent warm weather and rain, there was enough coverage down low. Shortly after getting on the road to Amabilis, there were a few dirt patches, but there was adequate coverage from previous skiers to keep going up a track that was put in by multiple parties before us. We skied up under cloudy skies and hoped that they would turn "partly sunny" like the forecast had told us. While the coverage was nice on the road, snow depth in the trees was minimal. The snow on the road had a packed section where people had previously traveled, but the snow was deep and mushy outside of that section.

Upon reaching the intersection for the loop of the upper mountain, two of our party decided to turn around. Liz turned around because she had Nordic skis which just weren't ideal for the situation. And Jack turned around due to blisters from his boots. This was his first time using his AT setup to skin. After our little break the rest of us continued upward, choosing a clockwise direction to complete the loop.

In the woods near our turn around

The conditions got worse from there as there were few people who had gone up that section of trail. The snow had a breakable crust which wasn't good for the two remaining skiers or the snowshoers. It took a long time for us to continue up while the weather worsened. When we finally made the last section of woods before our turnaround, a cool mist was wetting us and I quickly put on a rain shell. In moments we had reached our turn around point, where I donned another layer under the shell. We all had a quick snack/lunch. While us skiers transitioned into downhill skiing we discussed with the slowshoers that we would wait for them at the intersection of the top loop.

And away we went. The skiing was surprising not horrible. With a slightly steeper road than on Mount Catherine, I was able to glide without a whole lot of double poling. But Ken and I did have to remain in the track otherwise we would slow to a stop. A few portions were difficult to maintain speed as they were lower angle or the track wasn't wide enough for both of my skis. Had we not had to wait for the snowshoers, Ken and I would probably have returned to the parking lot in a little over and hour.

The ski out

After a certain distance, the track widened, and was more compact and our speed picked up. I had to occasionally snowplow in order to maintain speed. Sometimes you could just steer into the deeper snow to lose some speed, but this practice proved to be a little difficult as you didn't know what to expect outside of the track. Once closer to the intersection, the packed swath of road was wider and more firm. I really picked up speed on this section without trying. And the last stretch into the meeting point was all snow plow. Ken followed behind me and attempted to scrub speed by sticking a ski into the deeper snow off the packed section. He started to lose control and laid down instead of continuing toward the immanent crash.

Ken on a faster section of the road

We waited a long time before our snowshoe friends arrived. We greeted them and asked if they needed anything. They didn't. And we were on our way. I got to the car in about 20 minutes from that point, and that even included one stop to rest my legs and a short uphill that I had to side step. The lower section of the road had some good snow and the packed section comprised more of the road in certain areas to the width where I could actually make small turns. Before I knew it, it was over and we were back at the parking lot where Liz and Jack were waiting. Once again we waited for the snowshoers, and then it was time to head back to Seattle.

Jennifer and I had done this trip with Gabriel and Lindsay a few years ago. At the time I was new to skiing and debated about trying it on my skinny skis. I opted not to and stuck with snow shoes. After seeing Gabriel's ease of skiing it, and the relative easy conditions, I had wished at the time I had attempted it on skis. While it would be interesting to try it with a Nordic ski, they weren't the right option for today's conditions and I was happy to have my backcountry skis which did not inhibit my performance at all.

Want a Drink?

Traveler drinking from the water hose while getting his bath. He did a lot better than I expected for his first one. Me, I just look really hot and tired. And I was.

Grit Needed

Is there beauty in this? Some people can find art even in ice, but I'm having a difficult time joining their ranks. When I opened the blinds yesterday and saw the bowed Loquat, it was like a fast punch to the midsection, and I felt myself spiraling down to a very bad place. Maybe living through decades of midwestern ice storms meant that this sight set off a kind of post-traumatic thing, or something like that. Whatever the reason, all I could feel was despair. To paraphrase Private Benjamin - this was not the Austin I'd signed up for. But today, looking at the blog posts by Pam/Digging and MSS/Zanthan has helped. They're not hiding inside, they're taking photos and even putting videos on YouTube, so I went outside, too. And soon I felt a spark of the scientific curiosity lurking in all gardeners. What will defrost and live? What will immediately rot? Will the oleander ever stand upright again? It will be especially interesting to see whether the native plants can take such a prolonged period of imprisonment in frozen rain.

Henry Mitchell said it well, "It is not nice to garden anywhere...There is no place, no garden, where these terrible things do not drive gardeners mad."

But he also said, "What is needed around here is more grit in gardeners."

My Austin friends have that grit - maybe I can summon up enough to go pour hot water in the bird bath and set out some sunflower seeds.