ou can hurt with your words but sometimes you can hurt more with your silence.
Monday, August 30, 2010
Car Talk... Recollections of a Wilted Romance
Here is a confession: I feel guilty about my car - or rather, what used to be my car.My poor car, once so beloved! I received it as a gift from my family six years ago, after I earned my doctorate and was about to start a new job in a mountainous region of Northern New England. It was the most lavish gift I have received in my life by far, either before or since, and I was filled with gratitude and disbelief. The car was beautiful and impeccably tasteful and rugged, and my excitement knew no bounds. The exterior was a lovely shade of dark gray and the interior was beige suede (I still remember the texture and smell of the seats when the car was new). The 4WD, the optional manual mode, and the myriad of safety features would keep me protected on the treacherous terrain of the place I was to live (and commute for over 20 miles to work). I named the car, and loved it as if it were a puppy. And I delighted in my long commutes - through the valleys past idyllic farm scenes and along dangerous mountain cliffs through the clouds of thick fog that would rise in the mornings.
Everybody was relieved at my reaction to the car, because I had never been an enthusiastic driver in my previous attempts at car ownership. By my early twenties I had dispensed with cars altogether, living in urban areas where they weren't necessary. Interestingly, this was viewed by many as a lack of self-sufficiency on my part: By living in cities, not practicing driving, and allowing my already questionable motoring skills to deteriorate, I was making myself dependent on urban comforts and public transportation. This new job in a rural area demanded a re-adjustment.
My romance with the new car lasted into winter... until I got into a horrifying accident involving darkness, black ice,fresh snow,a cliff and a railing - into which I crashed head-on after losing control on a turn. Miraculously, I emerged unscathed. And though the front end of the car was totaled, my insurance company came through wonderfully and soon the car was good as new. According to the policemen on the scene, that stretch of the road was so bad that night, that "there was nothing anyone could have done different, except not be out on the road". Not an option of course, when commuting home from a long workday.
I cannot say that I began to dislike or fear cars after this event; it was nothing so dramatic or definite. And I continued to drive throughout that winter and the next, in the same dangerous snow and ice, with no further mishaps. But I no longer thought of my car anthropomorphically, no longer considered it cute. It had become just a thing - a necessary thing, but a dangerous one, too, as well as a stuffy and oppressive one at times. Somehow I no longer saw the charm in the beige suede interior or the beauty of the tasteful gray exterior. It was just a car - something that made sense to use only when the necessity outweighed the danger and the feeling of stuffiness, but not otherwise. It was an excellent car, to be sure - useful especially in rural areas, and great for hauling things in its roomy interior. But just a car.
Several years after I got married, we moved to Boston. Within a week, we decided that the Co-Habitant would sell his car and mine would be shared. This was in no way driven by "ideology" on our part; it was simply absurdly inconvenient to have two cars in Boston, and since his was larger than mine, it was the one to go.
When the decision was made to share my car, I hardly suspected that I would never drive it again, but that is exactly what happened. I have not been behind the wheel of it or any other motor vehicle since sometime in 2007, over three years ago now. I have no idea why, and it was never my intention to categorically stop driving. But soon I found that I would rather walk to my destination for an hour than drive there (which was exactly what I did before I started cycling). What used to be my car now pretty much belongs to the Co-Habitant; I experience no feelings of possession when I look at it or sit in the passenger's seat while traveling together.
Will I drive again? Realistically speaking, I probably will, though I don't know when that might be. I am not "anti-car" and consider cars to be useful and necessary in many circumstances. But I cannot imagine wanting to drive just for the sake of it, or loving a car in the same way as I do my bicycles.
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Antelope Canyon Adventure
Yesterday's Antelope Canyon adventure was AWESOME. We spent a total of 6 hours photographing the canyon, 4 hours in Lower Antelope and 2 hours in Upper Antelope. Both are equally impressive and so magical that they defy description. The two sections of Antelope Canyon are also very different from each other and have completely different characters. Lower is very easy to access via a short trail from the parking area and the canyon is skinny at the bottom and wide at the top. Upper is accessible only via heavy-duty trucks with big tires that have been modified to drive the several miles up the soft sandy wash. Upper is also different from Lower in that it is very narrow at the top and wide at the bottom.
Above: Driving up the wash to Upper Antelope Canyon
Above: The entrance to Upper Antelope Canyon. If you look to the left of the trucks (where you can see people standing), there is a slit in the rock. This is the entrance to the canyon.
Above and below: A magical world awaits you just a few feet inside the entrance of the canyon!
Below: My friend Roger posing in one of the most interesting sections of Lower Antelope Canyon. The way the light washes down the canyon walls here is unreal!
Below: Lower Antelope is also different from Upper in that the floor of the canyon is very uneven and in several places rugged stairs have been installed so people can make their way through the canyon without the use of climbing gear.
Below: Self-portrait in Lower Antelope Canyon
Thursday, August 26, 2010
Seminole State Park :: Georgia!
Wednesday March 16, .. - - Because of “Spring Break” I decided to leave Florida. I had looked online and tried to reserve sites at several different State Parks but it seems that just about everything was nearly fully booked. There were sites available for one night at a time in several places but I just didn't think it was worth the hassle to have to move every night!
So, I found this lovely State Park in the southwest corner of Georgia, not far from the Florida and Alabama state lines. Since I was trying to find a place for the night and the next few days through the weekend I gave them a call to make sure they had sites available. Luckily for me, they did.
The campground is on the southside of a lovely lake, which I can see from my campsite, which is quite spacious. You can see your neighbors but they aren't right on top of you as in some places. It is really a very nice place. The temperature today was “unseasonably warm” in the 80s with lots of sunshine. Wonderful after a long, cold winter up north!
A trail winds through the pine forest, follows the boardwalk over the swamp and marsh area then on through the woods for about two and a half miles. The perfect ending to a long day of driving!
So, I found this lovely State Park in the southwest corner of Georgia, not far from the Florida and Alabama state lines. Since I was trying to find a place for the night and the next few days through the weekend I gave them a call to make sure they had sites available. Luckily for me, they did.
The campground is on the southside of a lovely lake, which I can see from my campsite, which is quite spacious. You can see your neighbors but they aren't right on top of you as in some places. It is really a very nice place. The temperature today was “unseasonably warm” in the 80s with lots of sunshine. Wonderful after a long, cold winter up north!
A trail winds through the pine forest, follows the boardwalk over the swamp and marsh area then on through the woods for about two and a half miles. The perfect ending to a long day of driving!
Monday, August 23, 2010
Busy Busy
Like the previous post stated, it's fully summer. Still. The sun has been out consistently during normal daylight hours and the stars have been seen most of the other time. The cloudy marine layer that covered the Puget Sound area most mornings never even made it close to the park boundary. Summertime and the living is easy!
The scene up here on Rainier the past couple of weeks has been really busy with climbers making many successful ascents of many routes. The Emmons and the DC are still both in great shape. The Emmons is currently the more direct route of the two, offering stellar glacier climbing from Schurman to the summit. Many people have also been climbing the Kautz, encountering moderate and fun conditions in the ice chutes and moderate glacier travel above. We've even gotten a few reports in from climbers who have made recent ascents of the Tahoma, Sunset Ridge, Ptarmigan Ridge and Mowich Face. The approaches on these more remote west side routes are a bit long and involve more encounters with scree and talus this time of year, but the climbing conditions above 9,000' remain great.
The past couple of weeks we have seen what appears to be an increase in the number of climbing parties having mishaps and/or full on accidents. We as the climbing rangers just want to remind everyone to stay vigilant, know and respect their abilities, stay aware of current conditions, and be ready and prepared to deal with whatever emergency may arise on your own. Help is definitely out there for people if it is needed, but that help might be a long way off which means self rescue is always required to some level.
Stay Safe. Climb Hard.
Saturday Morning, Camp Schurman |
The scene up here on Rainier the past couple of weeks has been really busy with climbers making many successful ascents of many routes. The Emmons and the DC are still both in great shape. The Emmons is currently the more direct route of the two, offering stellar glacier climbing from Schurman to the summit. Many people have also been climbing the Kautz, encountering moderate and fun conditions in the ice chutes and moderate glacier travel above. We've even gotten a few reports in from climbers who have made recent ascents of the Tahoma, Sunset Ridge, Ptarmigan Ridge and Mowich Face. The approaches on these more remote west side routes are a bit long and involve more encounters with scree and talus this time of year, but the climbing conditions above 9,000' remain great.
Sunset Ridge, photo by Paul Cook |
The past couple of weeks we have seen what appears to be an increase in the number of climbing parties having mishaps and/or full on accidents. We as the climbing rangers just want to remind everyone to stay vigilant, know and respect their abilities, stay aware of current conditions, and be ready and prepared to deal with whatever emergency may arise on your own. Help is definitely out there for people if it is needed, but that help might be a long way off which means self rescue is always required to some level.
Stay Safe. Climb Hard.
Simond Climbing Equipment
I must first start this with an apology and an excuse.And I really don't like excuses. Last winter while living in Chamonix I had every intention of visiting the Simond factory. I failed to accomplish that errand after being told Simond had been sold and would no longer be producing hardware.
I'm not privy to the ownership but no question that Simondis still in the Chamonix valley and producing hardware.
Pity I didn't bother looking into it further as the factory was with in easy reach via public transport of my flat. My fault for not following up on the idea and checking the facts. Hopefully I will get a visit and tour of the factory next winter.
I was wrong and my sincere apology to Simond for anymisinformation I published on the cc.com forum, which has nowbeen corrected.
The topic of Simond might not have come up if not for the recent discussion ofstainless steel in crampons.
But if you are an ice climber, you would have to have been born under a rock to not know that Simond changed our world with the Simond Chacal and the first reversed curve pick. In my opinion Simond was for many years THE ice climbing brain trustof the world. The history of Simond in the mountains around Chamonix and the men who climbed on their tools is likely unequaled. A tour of the Chamonix cemetery will just reinforce that impression.
I can't really do Simond justice in a short blog post but I might attempt that project at another time in the future. I can say these two Simond tools, the Chacal and the latter adze version, the Barracuda,offered as much tecnical advancement as the sport has ever seen before or since.
Simond from their web site:
http://www.simond.com/web/1-mountaineering-climbing
"THE CURRENTCOMPANY
Simond is run by a small, close-knit and enthusiastic team. We share a common background, enjoy the same activities and have a shared attitude to our work. We take a craftsman’s approach to production of our equipment within the rigorous controls of the company framework, which has ISO 9001 certification.
Our key objectives in the product development process are to ensure product reliability, ergonomic design and the highest quality. The whole team, from the managing director and R&D department to our sales representatives and technical advisors, tests all our equipment. Our products are specifically developed for your sporting activities; they meet with the highest safety requirements and give you maximum comfort and pleasure in use.
We select the best materials and use our own machinery to manufacture our products. Our highly skilled personnel then assemble them by hand, which means we can inspect our products at every stage of the manufacturing process, from the arrival of the raw materials in the factory right up to their packaging prior to delivery.
We listen to the users of our equipment and invite feedback from a diverse team of climbers and mountain professionals. They work with us so that we can integrate developments into our future products that meet our users’ expectations.
Simond has been striving for the past 150 years to preserve these values, which when combined with the very latest trends, have contributed to the continued reputation of the company as a major player among manufacturers of mountaineering and climbing equipment."
Back to the original discussion of stainless in crampons. Simond was the first to use stainless in a crampons. Mind you they have never built an entire crampon of stainless but they have been a smart userof the stainless in their product the Vampire crampon and its differing models.
The SimondVampire uses"hot-forged 17-4PH, structurally hardened martensitic stainless steel" for the front points in this crampons which should work just fine for what Simond has intended. Simond also uses chromoly in the frame of the Vampire not stainless. Might ask yourself why no stainlesss on the other 97% of the crampon. My comments were directed at BD's choice in materials and manufacturing techniques, and Chouinard/Salewa previous to that. Not Simond's or Camp's. Of the three using stainless today likely Simond is doing the best job of the choices in material and manufacturing when you look specifically at the stainless steel topic.
More on 17-4PH stainless:
http://www.sandmeyersteel.com/17-4PH-spec.html
The point in reference to my previous stainlees/chromoly comparison? High qualityforged stainless steel is not the same as stainless plate that is cut and cold formed. The hot-forged 17-4PH is time proven for durability in the Simond Vampire. To imply other wise would simply be in error.
We don't see much of the Simond gear in the USA these days but it is still widelypopular in Europe. Which should make an impression because likely more hard alpine climbing done every weekend in Chamonix and the surrounding Mt Blanc area than gets done in a full year in the USA.
Simond gear in action on tvmountain :) Look around and you'll see more of it there.
http://www.tvmountain.com/video/alpinisme/7317-goulotte-lafaille-mont-blanc-du-tacul.html
I'm not privy to the ownership but no question that Simondis still in the Chamonix valley and producing hardware.
Pity I didn't bother looking into it further as the factory was with in easy reach via public transport of my flat. My fault for not following up on the idea and checking the facts. Hopefully I will get a visit and tour of the factory next winter.
I was wrong and my sincere apology to Simond for anymisinformation I published on the cc.com forum, which has nowbeen corrected.
The topic of Simond might not have come up if not for the recent discussion ofstainless steel in crampons.
But if you are an ice climber, you would have to have been born under a rock to not know that Simond changed our world with the Simond Chacal and the first reversed curve pick. In my opinion Simond was for many years THE ice climbing brain trustof the world. The history of Simond in the mountains around Chamonix and the men who climbed on their tools is likely unequaled. A tour of the Chamonix cemetery will just reinforce that impression.
I can't really do Simond justice in a short blog post but I might attempt that project at another time in the future. I can say these two Simond tools, the Chacal and the latter adze version, the Barracuda,offered as much tecnical advancement as the sport has ever seen before or since.
Simond from their web site:
http://www.simond.com/web/1-mountaineering-climbing
"THE CURRENTCOMPANY
Simond is run by a small, close-knit and enthusiastic team. We share a common background, enjoy the same activities and have a shared attitude to our work. We take a craftsman’s approach to production of our equipment within the rigorous controls of the company framework, which has ISO 9001 certification.
Our key objectives in the product development process are to ensure product reliability, ergonomic design and the highest quality. The whole team, from the managing director and R&D department to our sales representatives and technical advisors, tests all our equipment. Our products are specifically developed for your sporting activities; they meet with the highest safety requirements and give you maximum comfort and pleasure in use.
We select the best materials and use our own machinery to manufacture our products. Our highly skilled personnel then assemble them by hand, which means we can inspect our products at every stage of the manufacturing process, from the arrival of the raw materials in the factory right up to their packaging prior to delivery.
We listen to the users of our equipment and invite feedback from a diverse team of climbers and mountain professionals. They work with us so that we can integrate developments into our future products that meet our users’ expectations.
Simond has been striving for the past 150 years to preserve these values, which when combined with the very latest trends, have contributed to the continued reputation of the company as a major player among manufacturers of mountaineering and climbing equipment."
Back to the original discussion of stainless in crampons. Simond was the first to use stainless in a crampons. Mind you they have never built an entire crampon of stainless but they have been a smart userof the stainless in their product the Vampire crampon and its differing models.
The SimondVampire uses"hot-forged 17-4PH, structurally hardened martensitic stainless steel" for the front points in this crampons which should work just fine for what Simond has intended. Simond also uses chromoly in the frame of the Vampire not stainless. Might ask yourself why no stainlesss on the other 97% of the crampon. My comments were directed at BD's choice in materials and manufacturing techniques, and Chouinard/Salewa previous to that. Not Simond's or Camp's. Of the three using stainless today likely Simond is doing the best job of the choices in material and manufacturing when you look specifically at the stainless steel topic.
More on 17-4PH stainless:
http://www.sandmeyersteel.com/17-4PH-spec.html
The point in reference to my previous stainlees/chromoly comparison? High qualityforged stainless steel is not the same as stainless plate that is cut and cold formed. The hot-forged 17-4PH is time proven for durability in the Simond Vampire. To imply other wise would simply be in error.
We don't see much of the Simond gear in the USA these days but it is still widelypopular in Europe. Which should make an impression because likely more hard alpine climbing done every weekend in Chamonix and the surrounding Mt Blanc area than gets done in a full year in the USA.
Simond gear in action on tvmountain :) Look around and you'll see more of it there.
http://www.tvmountain.com/video/alpinisme/7317-goulotte-lafaille-mont-blanc-du-tacul.html
Saturday, August 21, 2010
Manifest's Destiny: Thoughts on Utility Bikes and the Oregon Manifest Challenge
image via Jonathan Maus/ BikePortland.org |
image via scurvy_knaves |
image via Jonathan Maus/ BikePortland.org |
image via Jonathan Maus/ BikePortland.org |
image via Jonathan Maus/ BikePortland.org |
image via Jonathan Maus/ BikePortland.org |
image via Jonathan Maus/ BikePortland.org |
image via Jonathan Maus / BikePortland.org |
image via Jonathan Maus/ BikePortland.org |
"Identity before destiny" might be a motto to consider for next year's Oregon Manifest. And one could say that the same issue faces the utility bike market in North America at large. What do we mean by "car replacement?" Are stereos and electric assist must-have parts of the equation, or is it about ease of operation and hauling capacity? And is it reasonable to expect such a bicycle to win a 50 mile race?
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Snowflakes at Night
Lee took this shot of my dads elk antlers about midnight the night it snowed. The white dots are snowflakes.
Monday, August 16, 2010
It's Electric! A Case of Fear and Loathing?
Every once in a while I am asked why I do not write about electric bikes, and the answer is simple: because they do not interest me. Maybe in 40 years they will, but at the moment I do not find myself longing for a sweet e-assist ride. Still, I have nothing against electric bikes and their usefulness is readily apparent to me: cargo bikes and pedicabs, upright bikes in truly hilly areas, and bikes with assistance for the elderly and others who have a hard time pedaling on their own power. What's not to like?
Yesterday I was cycling across town and a middle-aged man on an e-bike was pedaling in the bike lane just ahead of me. He was going pretty slowly, so I passed him, not giving it a second thought. Then behind me I heard another cyclist passing him, and then I heard that cyclist shout: "Get the f- out of the bike lane you retard!" There was more, and the abuse was directed toward him riding an e-bike - which the regular cyclist did not feel belonged in the bike lane. That was not the first time I'd heard this sentiment. From Interbike last year, I know that the e-bike industry is trying hard to push e-assist onto the cycling market, and I also know that there is resistance among those who see e-bikes as a threat to "real cycling." But I figured meanies will be meanies and soon forgot about the shouting incident.
Then this morning, I saw a link to this articlein the Gothamist, debating whether a $1000 fine for riding an e-bike was overkill (the previous amount was $500). I had not even known that e-bikes were illegal in NYC, but apparently they are. It is illegal to ride them and it is illegal for bike shops to sell them. And now the city is considering a serious crack-down, because the food delivery guys on their "souped up" bikes are out of control, terrorising the peaceful citizens by going as fast as 30mph.
What bothers me about the NYC situation is not specific to e-bikes. It's that instead of the government regulating public behaviour with strictly enforced laws, perfectly useful objects are criminalised. 30mph is a speed that any decent roadie can hit on their racing bike without the help of e-assist. Yet racing bikes are not outlawed in NYC as far as I know. If speed-demon delivery boys are causing problems, set and enforce a speed limit. But the blanket targeting of e-bikes is not logical. When posting a link to the Gothamist article, abicycle blogger wrote: "NYC is flat and small enough that no one needs an e-bike here. Ever." What she means of course, is that she does not feel the need for an e-bike in NYC. Neither do I in Boston. But that line of thinking can just as well be applied to us by others. "Nobody needs to be riding a bike on the road!" is something I've heard too many times. The fear and loathing of e-bikes is just as irrational.
If we're going to outlaw stuff, I personally would like to see a law for motor vehicles to be stripped of doors, since doorings are responsible for countless cyclist injuries and deaths in cities. Make car doors illegal and problem solved. Maybe NYC should get on that.
Friday, August 13, 2010
Sleeping Bear Dunes
Today Ashleigh, Nathan, Austin, Elijah and the dogs headed to Sleeping Bear Dunes. I will get Nathan to write something up so he can remember the day. All pictures and words will be his.
Better Than New
When vintage bicycle collector Chris Sharp invited me to join a VCC ride in Northern Ireland, he also offered to lend me one of his pre-war roadsters and I gladly accepted. We corresponded about this for some time, and I arrived very curious what my loaner bike would be. Before the ride, Chris took me aside and told me he had something very special picked out. "I'd like to know what you think of it."
When he pointed out this bike across the yard, I admit I was a little surprised. It was certainly a nice bike. But considering some of the other machines in his impressive collection, there did not seem anything extraordinary about it: a plain black step-through with rod brakes.
"It's a 1941 Royal Enfield Sports Roadster, single speed, "Chris explained, studying my reaction. "I think you'll like it." Puzzled, I stood there looking at the bike as our group prepared to take off.
Aside from the original Brooks B18 saddle, I just didn't see anything remarkable about it. The drivetrain was in the right place. Nothing eccentric about the components. Ordinary lugwork. I didn't get it.
Furthermore, it occurred to me that riding a heavy ancient single speed with rod brakes was maybe just a tad ill advised in a hilly area with a group of people I'd never met before. Would I have to walk it uphill? Would I be able to stop downhill? But the ride began before I had time to dwell on these questions.
And that is when I learned what the mystery was, and what made this Royal Enfield so special: This bike was a rocket! A 45lb rocket, but a rocket nonetheless. It accelerated at the drop of a hat.It sailed effortlessly uphill. It plunged downhill.Its maneuverability and stability were impeccable.Riding through a stretch of rough gravel road, it rolled jauntily along as if on smooth asphalt.On top of that, the rod brakes actually worked, no worse than modern caliper brakes. "How are you liking that bike?" Chris would ask with a wink. But the answer was pretty clear, as for the entire ride I was in a state of permanent jaw-drop. How could something so old, clunky and seemingly ordinary handle like this?
Chris's theory is that this 1941 Royal Enfield happens to be an especially successful specimen of what was once known as the Sports Roadster: an upright model designed for leisure cycling, with more aggressive geometry and a shorter wheelbase than the more stately Roadster model. Raleigh made a Sports Roadster as well, as did most other English manufacturers of that time. The ladies' versions had straight step through frames, instead of the loop frames of the Roadster/Tourist bikes.
The following week, I paid Chris Sharp another visit and we went on a ride just the two of us. Once again I was given the Royal Enfield - I had to confirm whether my memory of how well it rode had been accurate. We were spectacularly unlucky with the weather that day, and it began to rain not long after we set off. Soon we were riding in a downpour, and by the time we decided to turn around, the shortest route back was 20 minutes. The rain was so bad we could hardly see in front of us.
I would never have imagined that I could ride a bike like the Royal Enfield in such weather, but it was fantastic. It handled no differently in the rain, and - perhaps most amazing of all - the rod brakes remained perfectly functional.
Really, these must be some magical rod brakes. Normally this type of brake is notorious for loss of functionality in wet conditions.
Overall, to say that I was impressed by this bicycle would be an understatement. "They don't make them like they used to" is a cliche I do not always agree with, but in this case it happens to be correct: I do not know of a modern step-through city bike that handles quite like this. Some come close, but this one wins nonetheless.
While a 1941 Royal Enfield Sports Roadster is a pretty obscure bicycle, my point is really more general. I've mentioned before that I tend to prefer the handling of vintage European strep-through city bikes to that of any contemporary version I have tried so far. In my experience, the older bikes tend to be not only more comfortable, but also faster - despite usually being at least as heavy and made of lower quality tubing. What was their secret? And why, with all our technology, can we not match - let alone improve upon - their ride quality today? It is a mystery that I would love to figure out some day.
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
Gear on the 1st Ascent of the Eiger?
10 point crampons and tricounis!
Very skilled and hard men.
Best detail account of the original gear used on the Eiger I've seen sin the "White Spider". I knew about the 12 point crampons of Harrer but the rumor of a "short" axe may be not unfounded. A "short axe" in 1938 could have been anything under 95cm.
No question this axe is closer to a 65/70cm than 100cm.
I do not know if the photo aboveare from the actual 1st ascent.
Kasparekon theHinterstoisser
with what looks to be a short North Wall hammer on the 1st ascent.
Heckmair and Vörg. Perfect French technique
of "ax anchor" using whatcould easily be 70cm. axes
Heckmair and crew with him holding his axe after the 1st ascent.
Heckmair was not a tall man and my thought is that axe can't be more than 70cm.
As a modern comparison, Jeff Lowe and Mike Weiss used 70cm Chouinard Piolets as there primary tools on the 1st Ascent of Bridalveil falls.
"The most experienced mountaineer in the group (Heckmair, Ludwig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek), Heckmair led the most difficult pitches in the ascent, aided by the extensive kit (including new 12-point crampons) that he and Vörg had purchased using sponsors' money. Even as the most experienced climber, he still ran into several problems on the North Face of the Eiger, such as when he slipped whilst climbing out of the exit cracks. Luckily, Ludwig Vörg caught him by his feet, piercing his hand on Heckmair's crampons as he did so."
From the Eiger ascent:
"The same dayKasparek and Harrer ascension began leaving
the two Germans at the base of the wall. After several hours of climbing
reach the Rote Fluh and Hinterstoisser Crossing, which easily crossed by fixed
ropes had left a few weeks before other climbers. Take a snack at a bivouac
conditioning called "Swallow's Nest", where 40m rope stop by if you must back
out there. A lesson learned from the misfortune of Toni Kurz and his
colleagues two years ago."
"The next morning, July 22,
Second face the Snowfield, and
here Harrer no longer fit doubts: he made
a big mistake by not wearing crampons. Fritz
Kasparek is forced into an excess of grief and effort
to go to Harrer carving steps
can follow. And so, slowly move up through the frozen snow diagonal Right to
Left."
"When you are about to finish
the lengthy Second Snowfield, something leaves them amazed. Behind them two climbers are
reaching them at a rate they believe they will run. In seconds they reach.
To his
surprise are Heckmair and Vörg, which come climbing at a stretch from the base
of the wall. As Harrer himself wrote: "... wearing their 12-point
crampons, and I, with my boots winged fly (tricounis), I am out of place ...".
The Germans
advance and come to a head. From that time, fit the ascent and continue climbing 4 more
or less together."
Photos and comments courtesy of:
http://elpioletdemadera.blogspot.com//02/eiger-4-con-anderl-heckmair-al-frente.html
http://elpioletdemadera.blogspot.com//02/eiger-3-julio-del-38-sera-ahora.html
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